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JAMES OlllSllOliM, OF HYDE PARK, MASSACHUSETTS.

COAT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 599,139, dated February 15, 1898.

Application filed March 27, 1897.

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JAMES CHISHOLM, of Hyde Park,in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Coats and Like Garments, of which the following, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification.

The object of this invention is to improve, simplify,and cheapen the construction of garments in respect to the collar portion thereof, and particularly with regard to waterproof coats or those having more or less of rubber in their composition.

It has long been the practice of tailors and others in attaching the collar to a coat or like garment made of ordinary textile fabrics to unite the parts by inclosing a stay'piece of bias-cut canvas and by sponging and stretching the back fabric, fulling the collar fabric, heating, pressing, and stitching them in position, and otherwise so manipulating the goods as to shape the parts to the peculiar curves around the shoulders and back of the neck. Such treatment is not applicable, except to a limited extent, to waterproof fabrics such as are used in Macintosh coats and the like, and even in the ordinary practice of tailors much of time and labor are required in this portion of their work.

By my improvement I do not attempt to cut the lower curve of the collar to conform to the upper line of the body of the coat at the neck portion, but I interpose between them a crescent-shaped piece of fabric similar to them both and stitch its concave edge to the concave lower edge of the collar fabric and its convex edge to the upper edge of the body fabric. 1 invert or turn wrong side up this interposed piece before stitching through it and the collar along their concave lines, then turn said piece right side up, fold back the margins of the goods taken up by the seam, and run a line of stitches each side of the seam, so as to hold such margins down smoothly against the inner face of their respective fabrics. The curvature of these two parts before being thus united differs materially, that of the collar being sharper or more concave than that of the interposed piece and their concave lines being opposed rather than approximating to each other. Hence when they Serial No. 629,514. (No model.)

are united by a seam parallel with the concave edge of each piece a rising tendency or, as it is technically termed, a stand is given to the collar or said interposed piece with relation to each other when straightened out; but when bent to the natural curves of the neck and collar of a coat they take position smoothly and naturally without coaxing or fitting.

of the garment. Such piece in practice forms part of the back of the garment, extending around the back of the neck beneath the collar, being widest at its center and tapering gradually to each end. The collar folds down wardly along the upper line of its junction with said interposed piece. The velvet or other material forming the upper surface of the collar may extend at the neck over the double seam at such junction and be turned under the lower margin thereof.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a pattern or plan view of the collar and the interposed piece which is to be stitched thereto, said parts being both shown with their right side or outer face upward. Fig. 2 shows said parts as first brought together, the'interposed piece with its wrong side or inner face upward and laid upon the collar ready to be stitched when their two concave edges are made to coincide. Fig. 3 is a central transverse section on the line 3 3 of Fig. 2 of said parts united; and Fig. a is a similar View, the interposed piece being turned back and double-seamed. Figs. 5 and 6 are respectively outside and inside views of the upper part of the coat, illustrating the position of the interposed piece. Figs. 7 and 8 are perspective sections showing the collar up and down and provided with its velvet cover.

A represents the body of the coat, B the collar thereof, and O the interposed crescentshaped piece.

D is the seam along which the collar is secured to said piece, so as to shape the garment properly over the shoulders and back of the neck without hot pressing, stretching, or like manipulation.

The edges of the collar and interposed piece, which are to be united in the seam D, are according to my method concaved reversely, the same side of the goods being sup I i i The convex edge of the interposed piece is stitched to the upper edge of the body posed to be uppermost in both, as seen in Fig. 1. Their adjacent concave edges are to be drawn together, so that in use the right side of the fabric is presented outwardly and there is a proper stand of the collar relative to the back, of which the interposed piece becomes a part, and so that the collar will fold down properly in its double curves over said piece. To best accomplish the union of these parts, I lay the piece 0 upside down, the wrong side of the goods outward, upon the collar B and unite their concave edges in the seam D parallel and near to such edges, bending the piece 0 to a somewhat sharper curvature meanwhile to make it exactly coincide edgewise with the collar. Then I turn back the piece G into approximately the same plane as the collar, open and press down the margins of fabric united by the seam D, and form a line of stitches d each side' of the first seam and through the goods and said margins to make the joint as smooth as possible. The turning back of the piece 0 gives it a stand in a different plane from the collar, which had a different curvature, and gives the desired smoothness of roll to the collar under the conditions of use. The interposed piece loses in the garment the character of a crescent and appears as if bounded by two convex curves. (See Figs. 5 and 6.)

The body of the garment is united to the lower edge of the interposed piece 0 by a stitched seam E or by cement to give a permanent but pliable joint. The seam E extends somewhat beyond the ends of the piece C, and at such points the ends of the collar are secured at their lower edges to the upper part of the body A. The body fabric will usually be turned inwardly and made a double thickness at the vertical edges,where the buttonholes are formed and buttons applied. The fabric represented is a two-face Mackintosh goods, the inner surface being of a plaid pattern to represent a lining. A velvet collar F, covering over the plaid face of the collar B, is indicated in Fig. 8 and part of Fig. 6.

I claim as my invention A coat or like garment having a suitable body, a collar having its lower edge cut on a concave curve, and a crescent-shaped piece interposed between and united at its edges to said collar and body, the concave edge of said interposed piece being united to said concave edge of the collar, the degree of concavity of said piece being less than that of the collar, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JAMES CHISIIOLM.

Vituesses:

A. H. Srnncnn, GEO. M. CoNAN'r. 

